When it comes to home renovation, there’s always more than one way to skin a cat — and installing laminate flooring over plywood is a classic example. I’ve worked on countless floors, and trust me, plywood can make an excellent base for laminate if you play your cards right. It’s smooth, stable, and holds up well under pressure — a real unsung hero in the world of subfloors.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about laying laminate over plywood — from prepping the surface and choosing the right underlayment to avoiding common pitfalls that can trip you up down the road. Whether you’re tackling a living room makeover or revamping a bedroom, by the end of this, you’ll know exactly how to get that picture-perfect finish without breaking a sweat.
Why Plywood Makes a Good Subfloor for Laminate
When it comes to installing laminate flooring, a plywood subfloor is truly the backbone of a solid setup. In my years working on floors, I’ve learned that the smoother and more stable your base is, the better your laminate will look and last — and plywood checks both boxes with flying colors.
Unlike concrete or OSB (oriented strand board), plywood offers a natural balance of strength and flexibility. It doesn’t expand and contract as dramatically with temperature changes, which means your laminate won’t end up creaking like an old rocking chair down the road. Plus, plywood’s uniform surface helps the laminate sit flush, giving you that seamless, high-end finish everyone loves.
Another big plus is its nail-holding power. If your plywood is properly screwed or nailed down, it provides an incredibly stable platform that resists shifting or squeaking — something that can drive homeowners up the wall later on. I always say, “A floor is only as good as what’s beneath it,” and that couldn’t be truer here.
Compared to particleboard, which can swell at the first hint of moisture, plywood stands tall. Its layered construction gives it better resistance to warping and water-related damage. In short, it’s tough as nails yet flexible enough to work with, making it one of the best subfloors for laminate installation — hands down.
Check the Condition of Your Plywood Subfloor
Before diving headfirst into installation, it’s best to take a step back and give your plywood subfloor a good once-over. You know what they say — “a stitch in time saves nine.” Spending an hour inspecting now can save you days of frustration later.
Start by checking for any signs of moisture damage, warping, or rot. If your plywood looks darkened, feels soft, or gives off that musty smell, it’s waving a red flag. Those damaged spots need replacing before you even think about laying laminate. Remember, laminate and moisture go together like oil and water — they simply don’t mix.
Next, walk across the entire floor slowly. Listen and feel for squeaks, dips, or loose sections. If it sounds like you’re walking on bubble wrap, chances are your subfloor isn’t fastened properly. Use screws to tighten loose panels and make sure everything feels firm underfoot.
Now, let’s talk about flatness, because that’s the secret sauce for a flawless laminate installation. I always keep a 6–10 foot straightedge handy and run it across the floor. If you spot gaps larger than 1/8 inch, that’s your cue to sand down high spots or fill in low ones with a leveling compound. Uneven plywood can cause laminate planks to separate or “bounce” later — and trust me, that’s a headache you don’t want.
Finally, check that the thickness of your plywood is adequate. For laminate flooring, you want at least ¾ inch thick plywood to provide solid support. Anything thinner, and you’re building on shaky ground.
Getting your subfloor right at this stage is like laying a strong foundation for a house — if it’s off even a little, everything above it will follow suit.
Preparing the Plywood for Laminate Installation
Preparation is where the rubber meets the road. Even the best laminate in the world won’t sit right if your plywood isn’t properly prepped. I always tell homeowners — “measure twice, cut once” — and the same logic applies here: do your prep work right, and the installation will be smooth sailing.
Clean and Smooth the Surface
Start by giving your plywood a good cleaning. Sweep and vacuum away every speck of dust, dirt, and debris — even the small stuff can cause bumps under the laminate. Remove any leftover staples, nails, or bits of old flooring adhesive. If your plywood has paint or residue from previous flooring, a quick sanding helps ensure a perfectly smooth surface.
Next, deal with any high or low spots. High spots can be sanded down with a belt sander, while low areas should be filled using a floor-leveling compound. Make sure everything dries and cures before you move on — patience here pays off big time. Remember, laminate flooring loves a flat surface; the smoother your plywood, the better your finish will look.
Fix Loose Panels and Squeaks
Before laying anything on top, make sure your plywood is rock solid. Walk across the floor again and listen for squeaks or movement. If you hear any, that’s your cue to screw down loose panels — I recommend using 1 ½- to 2-inch wood screws spaced about 6 inches apart along the edges and 8 inches in the field.
If the squeak persists, try inserting a screw near the noisy spot into a floor joist. It’s a small step, but believe me, it saves a world of frustration later. Nothing ruins a quiet evening like a floor that talks back every time you take a step!
Check for Moisture Levels
Last but not least, it’s time to check your plywood’s moisture content — and this step is non-negotiable. Use a moisture meter to test several spots across the subfloor. Ideally, the reading should be below 12% before you proceed. If it’s higher, give the area time to dry out naturally or use a dehumidifier.
Excess moisture trapped under laminate can cause warping, swelling, or even mold — and that’s a can of worms you definitely don’t want to open. If your plywood is installed over a crawl space, make sure there’s a vapor barrier below it to prevent future moisture seepage.
Once your plywood is clean, flat, dry, and silent, you’re ready to move to the fun part — choosing the perfect underlayment.
Choosing the Right Underlayment
Now that your plywood subfloor is prepped and ready, it’s time to talk about underlayment — the unsung hero that makes all the difference between a decent floor and a fantastic one. I often tell clients, “Don’t judge a book by its cover,” because what’s beneath your laminate matters just as much as what’s on top.
Underlayment might seem like a minor detail, but it plays a huge role in comfort, sound absorption, and moisture protection. Even though plywood is stable, it’s still porous, which means it can transmit moisture from below. That’s where the right underlayment steps in to save the day.
Foam Underlayment — The All-Rounder
Foam underlayment is the most common option — affordable, easy to install, and perfect for most plywood subfloors. It provides just enough cushioning to make the floor comfortable underfoot and helps smooth out tiny imperfections. I recommend using foam with an integrated vapor barrier, especially if your home tends to have higher humidity. It’s like killing two birds with one stone — comfort and protection in one go.
Cork Underlayment — The Sound Specialist
If you’re installing laminate in an upstairs room, apartment, or anywhere noise might be an issue, cork is your best bet. It’s a bit pricier, but it’s a soundproofing champ. Cork also offers excellent thermal insulation, keeping your floors warm in winter and cool in summer — a win-win in my book.
However, cork isn’t naturally moisture-proof, so I always recommend pairing it with a separate vapor barrier when using it over plywood. That little extra step can save you from moisture headaches down the road.
Rubber or Felt Underlayment — The Premium Option
When you want the best of the best, rubber or felt underlayments are worth their weight in gold. They’re denser, provide top-notch sound insulation, and feel incredibly solid underfoot. These types are often used in luxury homes or high-traffic areas where comfort and noise control are key priorities.
The only catch? They can be more expensive — but as the old saying goes, “You get what you pay for.”
What to Avoid
Skip any underlayment that lacks moisture protection or feels too thick (over 3mm). Too much padding can cause the laminate joints to flex and eventually crack. Also, avoid using multiple layers of underlayment — one good one is all you need.
Installation Methods: Floating vs Glued Laminate
When installing laminate flooring over plywood, one big decision comes knocking — should you go with a floating floor or a glued-down one? I’ve worked with both methods, and while each has its time and place, one clearly takes the cake for most homeowners. Let’s break it down so you can decide which suits your project best.
Floating Laminate Flooring
If you ask me, floating laminate flooring is the way to go nine times out of ten. It’s quick, clean, and perfect for DIYers. The boards lock together using a tongue-and-groove or click-lock system, so there’s no glue or nails involved — they simply “float” over the underlayment.
This method works beautifully on plywood because the subfloor already provides a stable, level base. Plus, it allows the floor to expand and contract naturally with temperature changes without damaging the laminate. It’s flexible yet durable, and if you ever need to replace a damaged plank, you can pop it out without tearing the whole floor apart. That’s what I call a win-win.
One key tip: always leave a ¼-inch expansion gap around the room’s perimeter. Laminate may not look alive, but it sure moves like it! Give it room to breathe, and you’ll avoid future buckling or gaps.
Glued Laminate Flooring
Now, glue-down laminate isn’t as common these days, but it still has its merits — especially in high-traffic areas or commercial settings where soundproofing and stability are a top priority. When glued directly to plywood, the laminate feels incredibly solid underfoot with less hollow sound.
However, it’s a bit trickier to install. The adhesive can get messy, and once it sets, fixing mistakes isn’t easy. It also makes future repairs harder since the planks are bonded to the subfloor. In my book, glued laminate works best when you’re confident in your prep work and don’t plan on lifting the floor anytime soon.
Which One Should You Choose?
For most homeowners, I’d recommend floating laminate. It’s faster, cleaner, and allows for easy maintenance down the line. But if you’re after maximum firmness and sound reduction, a glue-down installation could be worth the effort.
As the saying goes, “different strokes for different folks.” It all comes down to your room’s needs, your skill level, and how permanent you want your flooring to be.
Step-by-Step: Installing Laminate Flooring Over Plywood
Alright, here comes the fun part — laying down the laminate! With your plywood prepped and underlayment in place, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and get to work. Installing laminate flooring over plywood isn’t rocket science, but like any good project, it pays to go step by step. As I always say, “slow and steady wins the race.”
Step 1: Acclimate the Laminate
Before you even touch the planks, let them rest in the room where they’ll be installed for at least 48 hours. This allows the boards to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity. Skipping this step can lead to expansion or contraction later — and nothing’s worse than a floor that starts buckling after all your hard work.
Step 2: Lay the Underlayment
Next, roll out your underlayment across the plywood. Make sure the surface is clean and free of any debris before you start. Unroll one strip at a time, trim the edges neatly, and tape the seams together — but don’t overlap them. Keep the underlayment smooth and flat; wrinkles or folds can throw off the laminate alignment later.
Step 3: Plan Your Layout
Before cutting or snapping anything together, take a few minutes to plan your layout. I like to start along the longest, straightest wall in the room and work my way across. Stagger the end joints by at least 8 inches between rows — it not only looks better but also adds strength to the overall floor.
Check the width of the final row before starting. If it’ll be less than 2 inches wide, trim the first row slightly to even things out. It’s a small trick that makes the finished floor look professional and balanced.
Step 4: Click and Lock the Boards
Now it’s showtime. Lay the first row of laminate planks tongue-side facing the wall, using spacers to maintain a ¼-inch expansion gap all around. Insert the next plank at an angle into the previous one and press down until it clicks — you’ll hear that satisfying “snap” when it locks in place.
For the next rows, connect the short ends first, then angle and lock them into the previous row. If a plank doesn’t fit perfectly, gently tap it with a tapping block and mallet — no brute force needed! Patience and precision pay off here.
Step 5: Trim, Fit, and Finish
When you reach walls, corners, or door frames, measure carefully and make precise cuts using a jigsaw or circular saw. Always cut with the finished side up to prevent chipping. For tight spots, a pull bar works wonders to snug the planks into place.
Step 6: Add Baseboards or Molding
Once the floor is complete, remove your spacers and install baseboards or quarter-round molding to cover the expansion gaps. Nail the trim to the wall — never the floor — so the laminate can continue to move naturally beneath it.
Step 7: Clean and Inspect
Finally, vacuum or sweep the floor to remove dust and debris. Give it a good once-over to make sure all joints are tight and level. Step back and admire your work — you’ve just installed a beautiful laminate floor over plywood, the right way!
As I like to say, “a job well done is its own reward.”
When to Call a Professional
Now, I’m all for rolling up your sleeves and tackling a flooring project yourself — it’s rewarding, cost-effective, and lets you take pride in your handiwork. But sometimes, it’s smarter to call in the pros. As I like to say, “there’s no shame in knowing when to pass the baton.”
Structural or Moisture Problems
If your plywood feels soft underfoot, shows signs of mold, or has water damage, stop right there. Those issues go deeper than laminate can fix. A professional can assess whether your subfloor needs replacing or if there’s a moisture problem lurking below, like a plumbing leak or poor ventilation. Skipping this step could mean throwing good money after bad — and that’s never a good move.
Severe Unevenness or Subfloor Damage
Minor dips and bumps you can handle yourself with a bit of leveling compound, but if your subfloor has serious dips, bulges, or loose panels, that’s a job for someone with the right tools and experience. Professionals have laser levels, floor grinders, and the know-how to make the surface perfectly flat — which means your laminate will fit like a glove.
Complicated Layouts or Tight Spaces
If your project involves intricate floor plans, diagonal installations, or lots of corners and transitions, a pro can save you hours of frustration. They’ll cut planks with precision and handle those tricky spots — like under door frames or around vents — without breaking a sweat.
No Time or Tools
Let’s be honest — sometimes, it’s not about skill but about time. Between underlayment rolls, saw blades, spacers, and tapping blocks, laminate installation can get equipment-heavy. If you’re short on tools or just want the job done quickly and cleanly, hiring a flooring specialist is worth every penny.
At the end of the day, calling a pro doesn’t mean you’ve failed — it means you’re investing in a floor that’ll stand the test of time. As the old saying goes, “if you want something done right, get the right person for the job.”
