Laying laminate flooring over floorboards might sound like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, but trust me — with the right prep work, it’s smooth sailing. Over the years, I’ve learned that when it comes to flooring, what’s under your feet matters just as much as what you see on top. Floorboards can make a solid, stable base for laminate — but only if you play your cards right.
Before you start snapping those planks together, it’s important to check whether your old floorboards are up to the task. Any dips, squeaks, or gaps can come back to haunt you later, causing uneven floors or noisy steps. As the old saying goes, “a stitch in time saves nine,” and that couldn’t be truer here — getting your base right can save a ton of headaches down the road.
Can You Lay Laminate Over Floorboards?
Absolutely — you can lay laminate flooring over existing floorboards, but it’s not a job where you can fly by the seat of your pants. Laminate needs a flat, stable, and dry base to perform well, and not all wooden floors meet that standard right off the bat. I’ve seen homeowners jump in with both feet, only to find their shiny new laminate creaking or lifting a few months later — all because they skipped the prep work underneath.
If your floorboards are structurally sound, dry, and relatively level, then you’re already halfway there. But if they’re old, squeaky, or have gaps wide enough to lose a coin in, you’ll need to roll up your sleeves and do some fixing before you even think about unboxing your laminate planks. As I often say, “you can’t build a castle on a shaky foundation.”
It’s also worth mentioning that laminate floors work best when the base doesn’t flex or move. Floorboards can expand and contract slightly with temperature and humidity changes, which might make your laminate shift or buckle if not handled correctly. That’s where a good-quality underlayment comes into play — it acts as a cushion, evens out minor imperfections, and reduces noise.
In short, yes — it’s perfectly fine to lay laminate over wooden floorboards, but only if you’ve done your homework. Think of it like painting a wall: the smoother your canvas, the better your final finish. Get the prep right, and you’ll end up with a floor that not only looks the part but also stands the test of time.
Inspecting the Floorboards
Before you dive into the laminate installation, it’s time to give your existing floorboards a good once-over. This step might not feel glamorous, but trust me — skipping it is like putting lipstick on a pig. No matter how fancy your laminate is, it won’t hide the sins of a poorly prepped subfloor.
I always start by walking slowly across the entire floor, listening and feeling for any movement, squeaks, or soft spots. If you hear creaks, it usually means the boards are rubbing against nails or joists. The fix is simple: tighten loose boards using screws instead of nails. Screws hold firm and prevent future movement. For any boards that feel spongy or have started to rot, it’s best to replace them altogether. Trying to save a few planks now can cost you a whole floor later — penny wise, pound foolish, as they say.
Next, check for raised nails or screws. Even the tiniest bump can throw off your laminate installation, leaving you with uneven joints or a hollow sound when you step on it. I use a hammer or drill to ensure every fastener is flush with the board’s surface.
Another thing to look out for is gaps between boards. Small ones can be filled with wood filler or putty, but wider gaps might need more attention — sometimes even a bit of sanding or new boards altogether. If your floorboards run in different directions between rooms, note that down; it’ll affect how you plan to lay the laminate later on.
In short, measure twice and cut once applies just as much to inspection as it does to installation. Take your time now to get things right, because every creak or dip left behind will only come back to haunt you after the laminate goes down.
Leveling the Floorboards
When it comes to laying laminate, having an uneven floor is like trying to balance a table on a rocky path — it just won’t sit right. Laminate flooring needs a level and stable base; otherwise, you’ll end up with gaps, lifted edges, or that annoying hollow sound when you walk across it. Over the years, I’ve learned that a smooth start makes for a smooth finish — and that couldn’t be truer here.
I begin by checking the floor’s level with a long straightedge or a spirit level. Anything more than 3mm of unevenness over a 1-meter span needs attention. High spots can be sanded down using a belt sander, while low areas should be filled. If the dips are minor, wood filler or floor patch compound usually does the trick. But for deeper depressions, I sometimes install a thin plywood overlay — usually ¼-inch sheets — to create a uniform surface across the whole room.
Now, here’s a tip I’ve picked up from experience: before laying any compound or plywood, make sure the area is completely clean and free of dust. Otherwise, your leveling work might not adhere properly, and you’ll be back to square one.
Also, keep an eye out for boards that have warped or cupped due to moisture or age. Replacing a few bad boards now saves you from dealing with uneven laminate planks later. Once you’ve leveled the surface, give it another check — trust, but verify, as they say.
Getting the floorboards flat and solid isn’t just about looks; it’s the backbone of your installation. Once you’ve nailed this step (no pun intended), your laminate flooring will go down like a dream — seamless, quiet, and built to last.
Checking for Moisture Issues
If there’s one hidden enemy that can wreak havoc on both wood and laminate, it’s moisture. It sneaks in quietly, does its damage slowly, and before you know it, you’re left with warped boards or spongy laminate. I’ve learned the hard way that what you don’t see can hurt you — and that’s especially true when it comes to damp floorboards.
Before laying laminate, I always test for moisture. The simplest way is by using a moisture meter. It gives you a quick reading of how much moisture is present in your floorboards. Ideally, they should be below 12% before installation. If you don’t have a meter, here’s an old-school trick: tape a small piece of plastic (about 2×2 feet) tightly to the floor and leave it for 24–48 hours. If you notice condensation underneath, there’s moisture in your boards or subfloor.
Moisture can come from several culprits — a damp crawl space, poor ventilation, or even plumbing leaks. If the area underneath your floorboards isn’t sealed or ventilated, it’s worth adding a vapor barrier before the underlayment. Otherwise, that trapped moisture could make your laminate buckle or swell.
If your home has a history of humidity issues, I recommend running a dehumidifier for a few days before installation. It helps stabilize the environment so your laminate won’t expand or contract excessively after it’s laid.
And remember, don’t sweep problems under the rug. If there’s any sign of ongoing dampness, fix the source first — whether that’s sealing gaps, improving airflow, or repairing leaks. Once you’ve got your moisture levels under control, you can move forward with confidence, knowing your new floor won’t turn into a warping nightmare.
Choosing the Right Underlayment
If the floorboards are the bones of your flooring project, the underlayment is the muscle that keeps everything strong, quiet, and comfortable. It’s one of those steps that many folks overlook, but take it from me — skipping the right underlayment is like building a house without insulation. Sure, it might look fine for a while, but it won’t feel or sound right in the long run.
Underlayment serves a few key purposes: it evens out small imperfections, reduces noise, provides cushioning underfoot, and — most importantly when working over wooden floorboards — offers moisture protection. The type of underlayment you choose can make or break your installation, so let’s break it down.
Foam Underlayment with Vapor Barrier
This is my go-to choice for most wooden subfloors. The foam provides a gentle cushion, making the laminate feel softer underfoot, while the vapor barrier layer prevents moisture from seeping up from below. If your home tends to get humid, or if you’re working on a ground-floor installation, this combo is worth every penny.
Cork Underlayment
Cork underlayment is a bit of a hidden gem. It’s eco-friendly, naturally resistant to mold, and does wonders for sound insulation. If you live in an apartment or a multi-level home and want to keep footsteps to a whisper, cork is a top contender. I like to say it’s quiet as a mouse but tough as nails.
Felt or Rubber Underlayment
For older homes with creaky or uneven boards, felt or rubber underlayment can help smooth things out. These materials are dense, providing excellent sound absorption and stability. They also help mask minor imperfections in the floorboards beneath, giving your laminate a flawless finish on top.
When choosing underlayment, I always consider the room type. For example, I’ll use foam with vapor barrier in a living room, cork in an upper-level bedroom, and rubber or felt in older homes where noise and movement are a concern.
The key takeaway? Don’t cut corners here. Spending a few extra dollars on quality underlayment can save you from headaches, creaks, and moisture issues down the line. As I often tell my clients, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”
Laying Laminate Flooring the Right Way
Once your floorboards are level, dry, and properly underlain, it’s finally time for the fun part — laying the laminate. This is where your preparation pays off. I’ve always said, “well begun is half done,” and by now, you’ve already done the heavy lifting.
The first thing I decide is the direction of the planks. As a rule of thumb, I like to lay laminate perpendicular to the floorboards. This helps distribute pressure evenly and prevents the floor from following the natural lines or dips of the wood beneath. Plus, it creates a cleaner, more professional look. If the room has windows, I sometimes follow the light direction instead — it visually elongates the space and makes the seams less noticeable.
Next, I leave about a 10mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Laminate expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity, and if you butt it up tightly against the wall, it’ll have nowhere to go. You can cover this gap later with skirting boards or quarter-round molding — so don’t worry, it’ll be out of sight.
When it comes to the installation method, most modern laminates use a click-lock system, which makes it easy to install without glue or nails. I always start from one corner of the room and work my way across, staggering the joints between boards by at least 12 inches. This not only strengthens the layout but also avoids a repetitive pattern that catches the eye.
Here’s a little tip I’ve picked up from experience: keep a tapping block and pull bar handy. They help snug the planks together without damaging the edges. And remember, measure twice, cut once — especially when cutting around door frames or irregular corners.
Finally, once the laminate is down, I take a slow walk across the floor. If there’s any bounce or hollow sound, it’s worth checking those spots right away — better to fix them now than have regrets later.
At this stage, your laminate floor should feel solid, even, and ready for finishing touches. You’ve come a long way from those old creaky floorboards, and with proper care, this new surface will look sharp for years to come.
Finishing Touches and Maintenance Tips
Once your laminate is down, you’re standing on the home stretch — quite literally. But as I always say, “the devil is in the details.” The finishing touches are what turn a good flooring job into a great one, so don’t rush through this stage.
I always start by adding trim or skirting boards to cover the expansion gaps around the room’s edges. If you already have existing baseboards you’d like to keep, you can simply add quarter-round molding to bridge the gap between the wall and the laminate. It gives the room a polished, professional look and hides those necessary expansion spaces beautifully.
Next up are transition strips — these are the unsung heroes that connect your laminate to other flooring types like tile, carpet, or vinyl. They not only make the space look seamless but also prevent tripping hazards and edge damage. Personally, I always match them to the laminate tone for a cohesive finish — it’s a small detail that goes a long way.
Now, when it comes to maintenance, laminate is thankfully a low-fuss flooring option, but that doesn’t mean you can throw caution to the wind. Avoid soaking it with water — laminate and puddles don’t see eye to eye. I prefer using a damp microfiber mop or a laminate-safe cleaner. Harsh chemicals or abrasive pads are a big no-no; they’ll dull the finish over time.
For everyday cleaning, a soft broom or vacuum with a hard floor attachment does the trick. And if you want your floor to keep looking as good as new, place felt pads under your furniture legs. Trust me, those little pads can save you from big scratches.
Finally, give your floor a bit of TLC — tender loving care. Wipe up spills promptly, maintain consistent indoor humidity, and use rugs in high-traffic areas. A little care goes a long way, and before you know it, your laminate will still be turning heads years down the line.
