When it comes to laying laminate flooring, I’ve always said that doorways are the “line in the sand.” You can breeze through a big open room, clicking planks together like a pro, but the second you hit a doorway, that’s where the rubber meets the road. Suddenly, you’re dealing with tight spaces, odd angles, and door jambs that seem to have a mind of their own. It’s a spot where patience and precision matter more than speed.
I’ve been on jobs where homeowners tried tackling doorways themselves, only to end up calling me in after the fact. Nine times out of ten, it wasn’t because they didn’t know how to lay laminate—it was because they underestimated the doorway. Think of it as the “choke point” of the project: if you can get the doorway looking seamless, the rest of the floor flows together like water downstream.
That’s exactly why I put together this guide. I want to walk you through the steps and share the tricks I’ve picked up along the way. With the right approach, you can turn what feels like a headache into a smooth transition—literally and figuratively. After all, a well-done doorway doesn’t just finish the room; it ties the whole home together.
Nice—I’ll dig deeper and give you specific product names, the exact types of materials, where to buy them (links), and quick tips so a reader can walk into a store or click “buy” without guessing. I’ll keep it in first person, flooring-expert voice with a few idioms thrown in.
Tools & Materials (deep dive)
1) Jamb saw (for undercutting door jambs)
Why: a jamb saw lets you cut the bottom of the door jamb so the laminate slides under the trim for a clean, factory look.
My go-to: the Roberts “Super Six” 6″ jamb saw (carbide tipped blade) — simple, accurate, and built for undercutting door jambs and toe kicks. (marshalltown.com)
Where to buy: specialty flooring suppliers (Tools4Flooring, ContractorsDirect) or general pro suppliers — this is a tool worth owning if you do multiple installs.
Pro tip: for long runs or repeated jobs, a powered undercut saw or an oscillating tool (below) speeds things up.
2) Oscillating multi-tool (powered alternative for tight cuts & trimming)
Why: when you can’t get a jamb saw in or need to trim tricky shapes the oscillating multi-tool shines—tiny, precise cuts without removing trim.
My recommendation (top reviewed in 2025): the Flex FX4111 gets rave reviews as an all-around pro multi-tool (Starlock accessories, strong performance). If you prefer the classic pros, Fein and Bosch are also solid choices. (Pro Tool Reviews)
Where to buy: big retailers (Amazon, Home Depot) or pro tool stores.
Pro tip: use a fine-tooth carbide or plunge blade made for wood/trim to avoid splintering.
3) Underlayment (types + brand picks)
Why: underlayment controls moisture, evens minor subfloor imperfections, and reduces sound—especially important at thresholds where two floors meet.
Types:
- Basic foam — budget, cushioning only.
- Foam with vapor/moisture barrier — good for ground floors or slight moisture risk.
- Sound-reducing/cork — if you want quieter footsteps (useful near busy doorways).
My pick for quiet + moisture protection: QuietWalk (3mm sound + moisture barrier) — widely available and well-reviewed. (The Home Depot)
Where to buy: Home Depot, Lowe’s, Amazon, or flooring wholesalers. (Also consider FloorMuffler if you want a heavy sound solution.)
Pro tip: always check the laminate manufacturer’s underlayment recommendations — some laminates require specific thicknesses or warranties.
4) Spacers, tapping block & pull bar (installation smalls)
Why: these simple items keep your expansion gap consistent, let you tap planks together without damage, and pull the final row tight against the wall.
What I use: a Roberts flooring installation kit (tapping block + pull bar + spacers) — inexpensive and practical for doorways and tight rows. (Common kits include 30–50 spacers, a rubber mallet, a tapping block and pull bar.)
Where to buy: Home Depot, Lowe’s, Amazon, or any flooring supply house.
Pro tip: keep extra spacers on hand — doorways may require odd last rows.
5) Transition strips & profiles (what to use at the threshold)
Why: doorways often join two different floors or heights—T-moulding, reducers, thresholds, or end caps are your finishing tools.
What they are (short):
- T-moulding — joins two floors at same height.
- Reducer — drops to a lower floor (vinyl/tile).
- Threshold / end cap — finishes an exposed edge (exterior doors or sliding doors).
Brand pick: M-D Building Products makes a wide range of floor transition trims and is stocked at big boxes. They have T-moulding, seam binders, reducers and more. (The Home Depot)
Where to buy: Home Depot, Lowe’s, Tools4Flooring, or the manufacturer site. Pick the profile that matches the thicknesses and color family of your plank.
Pro tip: dry-fit the transition before final glue/screws so you can check expansion gaps under real conditions.
6) Adhesives / fasteners for transitions
Why: many metal or vinyl transitions are glued or screwed down; using the right adhesive prevents loose, squeaky strips.
What I use: Loctite PL Premium (or PL Premium Max)—a heavy-duty construction adhesive that bonds to wood, metal and concrete and is commonly recommended for reinstalling or setting T-moulding/thresholds. (Apply a steady bead and weight down while curing.) (The Home Depot)
Where to buy: Home Depot, Floor & Decor or Amazon.
7) Blades & cutting supplies (for clean cuts at doorways)
Why: clean, splinter-free cuts = pro finish in the doorway.
What to use: fine-tooth carbide or laminate blades for circular saws/jigsaws; diablo or Crain laminate blades are commonly used by pros. For undercutting, use the carbide undercut blades on the jamb saw. (Contractors Direct)
Where to buy (quick list)
- Home Depot / Lowe’s — transition trims, underlayment brands (QuietWalk, FloorMuffler), Roberts kits, adhesives. (The Home Depot)
- Amazon — kits, tap blocks, multi-tools, blades (fast shipping).
- Tools4Flooring / ContractorsDirect — specialty jamb saws, blades, pro moldings. (tools4flooring.com)
If you want, I can:
- Drop in product links (I can paste a short clickable list of exact product pages for each recommended tool), or
- Write Section 4 (Prepping the doorway) next — whatever keeps the ball rolling.
Which would you like: product links now, or move on to Section 4?
Got it 👍 No extra line breaks between paragraphs, and I’ll keep links clean without any tracking tags. Here’s Section 4: Prepping the Doorway written in your flooring-expert style:
Prepping the Doorway
Before you lay a single plank in a doorway, you’ve got to do your prep work. I always say, “a good start makes for an easy finish,” and nowhere is that more true than here. Doorways are unforgiving, so every inch you prep now saves you twice the trouble later.
The first step is clearing the space. Remove any old transition strips, leftover nails, or debris. Even a stray screw head can throw off your plank fit, so don’t leave anything behind. I also like to vacuum the area thoroughly—it’s amazing how a small bit of grit can keep a board from locking tight.
Next up is undercutting the door jambs. This is the part that separates a clean, pro look from a weekend DIY job. I use a jamb saw like the Roberts Super Six or, if I’m in a tight spot, an oscillating multi-tool like the Flex FX4111 with a fine-tooth blade. The goal is to cut just high enough that your laminate and underlayment can slide right under the jamb without forcing it. That way, the floor looks like it was always meant to be there.
Don’t forget about leveling. Doorways often hide small dips or humps that you won’t notice until your plank rocks back and forth. I keep a straightedge handy and use floor patch compound if I spot low areas. It’s a little extra effort, but as the old saying goes, “don’t build a house on sand.” A solid, level base keeps your doorway planks from shifting over time.
Finally, check for expansion space. I always leave a ¼-inch gap at the sides of the doorway, even if it feels counterintuitive in such a tight spot. Laminate needs to breathe, and if you box it in at a doorway, you’ll end up with buckling down the line. I use spacers from my Roberts installation kit to keep everything consistent.
Once the doorway is clean, leveled, and undercut, you’re ready to move on to the real work—laying the planks. Prep may not be glamorous, but believe me, it’s the backbone of a flawless finish.
The 7 Steps To Lay Laminate in Doorways
Step 1: Measure Twice, Cut Once
Doorways don’t leave room for guesswork. I measure the plank length needed at least twice before marking my cut. A sharp pencil line and a steady square go a long way here. As I always say, “it’s better to be safe than sorry”—cutting short in a doorway sticks out like a sore thumb.
Step 2: Undercut the Door Jambs
Slide a scrap piece of laminate with the underlayment underneath, then run your jamb saw or oscillating tool along the edge. That gives you the perfect cut height so your plank tucks neatly under the trim. Think of it like slipping on a glove—it should fit without a fight.
Step 3: Leave Expansion Space
Even in doorways, your laminate needs breathing room. I always keep a ¼-inch gap along the sides of the jamb and threshold. Using spacers from my Roberts install kit ensures consistency. Remember, “don’t paint yourself into a corner”—skip the gap and your floor could buckle later.
Step 4: Dry-Fit the Planks
Before snapping anything into place, I lay out the planks and check the fit. This trial run shows me if I’ll need a rip cut or notch around trim. I like to think of it as a dress rehearsal—you want everything in sync before the big show.
Step 5: Cut and Shape the Planks
Doorways often require tricky cuts. I use a fine-tooth jigsaw blade or laminate blade for precision, sometimes marking the cut with painter’s tape to prevent chipping. Whether it’s a notch around a jamb or a rip cut for a narrow strip, clean cuts are the name of the game. A jagged edge will scream “DIY.”
Step 6: Click and Lock Into Place
With the plank cut and fitted, it’s time to lock it in. In tight doorways, a pull bar is worth its weight in gold—it lets you snug the plank into place without damaging the edges. This is one of those “slow and steady wins the race” moments.
Step 7: Install the Transition Strip
If your doorway leads into carpet, tile, or another type of flooring, now’s the time to add your transition. Whether it’s a T-moulding or a reducer, I set it with Loctite PL Premium adhesive for a rock-solid hold. Once cured, the doorway looks seamless, like the flooring flows naturally from one room to the next.
When these seven steps come together, you get a doorway that doesn’t just look polished—it feels built to last. And to me, that’s what separates a quick install from a professional finish.
Pro Tips From the Field
- Tape before you cut: I lay painter’s tape along my cut line before using a jigsaw. It keeps the laminate from chipping, and the finish looks sharp as a tack.
- Use scraps as guides: A scrap piece of laminate with underlayment makes the perfect height gauge when undercutting door jambs. Saves me from eyeballing and guessing.
- Mark planks upside down for cuts: When I need to notch a plank around a jamb, I flip it over and mark from the back. That way, I’m cutting exactly where it will fit—no head scratching later.
- Work backwards if needed: In some doorways, I’ve had to install planks in reverse (from the opposite side of the room). It feels odd, but sometimes you’ve got to “dance to a different tune” to make the pieces fit.
- Don’t rush the transition strip: Once glued, it’s not moving. I dry-fit everything twice before laying down adhesive, because “measure twice, glue once” is my golden rule.
Dealing With Different Scenarios
Laying laminate in doorways isn’t always a one-size-fits-all job—sometimes you’ve got to roll with the punches. Over the years, I’ve run into plenty of situations where the doorway throws a curveball, and knowing how to handle each one can save you from a real headache down the line.
Scenario 1: Transitioning Between Different Floor Heights
When one room has laminate and the other has a thicker surface like tile or hardwood, a reducer molding is your best friend. It creates a smooth slope and keeps you from tripping. Trust me, trying to force the laminate to match height is like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole—it just won’t work.
Scenario 2: Laminate to Carpet
Here, a T-molding or a carpet transition strip keeps things neat. The trick is tucking the carpet edge securely under the strip so it doesn’t fray or look sloppy. If you don’t button it up properly, that doorway will stick out like a sore thumb.
Scenario 3: Uneven or Worn Door Frames
Older homes often have door frames that are less than perfect. In that case, I carefully undercut the frame a touch more or shim the laminate to make it sit flush. It’s a bit of a balancing act, but once done right, it looks like the flooring was meant to be there all along.
Scenario 4: High-Traffic Doorways
Hallways and main entryways take a beating. I always recommend choosing a transition strip made from aluminum or high-quality wood instead of plastic. It’s like putting on steel-toe boots instead of flip-flops—the extra toughness goes a long way.
