Guide To Put Laminate Flooring Over Hardwood

When I first considered putting laminate flooring over my old hardwood floors, I’ll admit—I was torn. The hardwood had charm, sure, but years of wear and tear had left it looking tired and uneven. Refinishing felt like a can of worms I wasn’t ready to open, so I started thinking, why not give it a fresh face with laminate? It’s like giving your home a new lease on life without tearing out what’s already there.

Laminate flooring has become a go-to for many homeowners who want the look of real wood without breaking the bank—or their backs. It’s durable, low-maintenance, and comes in designs that mimic even the most luxurious hardwood species. The cherry on top? You can often install it right over your existing hardwood floor, saving time, money, and a whole lot of dust.

Of course, it’s not always as simple as “out with the old, in with the new.” Before you dive in headfirst, it’s important to know whether your hardwood floor is up to the task. After all, even the best laminate can’t hide every bump, squeak, or warped board underneath. As the saying goes, “a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.” The same applies here—your laminate will only perform as well as the surface it’s installed on.

Can You Install Laminate Over Hardwood Floors?

Yes, you absolutely can install laminate over hardwood floors—but only if the conditions are right. Think of it like building a house: if the foundation isn’t solid, the rest won’t hold up. The same rule applies here. Hardwood can make an excellent subfloor for laminate, provided it’s clean, flat, and structurally sound.

Let’s start with the good news. Installing laminate over hardwood is often a breeze compared to tearing everything out and starting from scratch. You’ll save yourself a back-breaking demolition job, not to mention the cost and mess that come with it. Plus, since laminate is a “floating floor,” it doesn’t need to be nailed or glued down. It simply clicks together and rests on top of your hardwood, which makes the whole process faster and easier.

But here’s the catch—your hardwood floor must be in good shape. If there are loose boards, deep dents, or high spots, they’ll show through the laminate like a sore thumb. I’ve seen folks skip the prep work and end up with squeaky, uneven floors that felt more like walking on a trampoline than solid flooring. So, as the saying goes, “don’t put the cart before the horse.” Take time to assess and fix what’s underneath before you start laying planks.

Another key factor to consider is height. Laminate adds an extra layer—usually about 8 to 12mm thick—and that can cause issues with door clearance or transitions to other rooms. You might need to trim doors or add reducer strips where the laminate meets tile or carpet.

In short, yes—you can absolutely put laminate over hardwood, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all scenario. With the right prep and a keen eye for detail, you’ll end up with a beautiful, durable floor that feels like new. Rush it, though, and you might find yourself biting off more than you can chew.

Inspecting and Preparing the Hardwood Subfloor

Before you even think about unboxing those shiny laminate planks, take a good, hard look at your existing hardwood. Preparation is half the battle here, and trust me—an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A few hours spent inspecting and fixing your subfloor can save you from creaks, uneven planks, and costly re-dos down the line.

Here’s how I tackle it step by step:

1. Check for Loose or Damaged Boards

Walk slowly across the entire floor and listen closely. Do you hear any squeaks or creaks? Feel any movement underfoot? Those are telltale signs of loose boards. Tighten them up by driving wood screws through the face of the plank into the joist below. If any boards are cracked or rotten, replace them—no ifs, ands, or buts. Laminate can’t cover up structural issues.

2. Level the Surface

Laminate flooring needs a flat base to sit evenly. Run a straightedge or level across different areas of the floor. If you find dips deeper than 3mm (about 1/8 inch), use wood filler or floor-leveling compound to even them out. For high spots, a quick sanding can do wonders. Remember, a smooth sea never made a skilled sailor—some elbow grease now means smooth sailing later.

3. Clean Thoroughly

Dust, dirt, and old adhesive residues are your enemies here. Sweep, vacuum, and mop the surface to remove everything that might affect adhesion or create bumps. Make sure the floor is completely dry before moving to the next step.

4. Check for Moisture

Even hardwood can hold moisture, especially in older homes. Use a moisture meter to test the surface. The reading should ideally be below 12%. If it’s higher, identify and fix the source of the moisture first—otherwise, it could cause your laminate to warp or buckle.

5. Secure the Baseboards (Optional)

If you plan to reuse your existing baseboards, remove them carefully with a pry bar before you start installing laminate. This makes it easier to leave expansion gaps and achieve a cleaner finish later on.

Once you’ve done all this, step back and take another walk across the floor. It should feel sturdy, smooth, and quiet underfoot—just the way laminate likes it. Getting this foundation right is like laying the groundwork for a masterpiece. As I always say, “do it right the first time, and you won’t have to do it twice.”

Moisture and Expansion Considerations

If there’s one thing that can make or break your laminate flooring project, it’s moisture. I’ve learned the hard way that even a small amount of trapped humidity can cause big headaches down the road—think buckling boards, swollen edges, and that dreaded “spongy” feel underfoot. So before laying down the first plank, it’s crucial to keep moisture and expansion in check. After all, “better safe than sorry” couldn’t be more fitting here.

1. Understanding Moisture and Why It Matters

Hardwood floors may look dry, but they can still hold moisture deep within the planks, especially in older homes or humid climates. When you cover them with laminate, that moisture gets trapped with nowhere to escape. Over time, it can wreak havoc beneath the surface. To avoid this, always test your hardwood with a moisture meter. Readings should be below 12%—anything higher is a red flag.

2. Use a Vapor Barrier or Underlayment with Moisture Protection

Even if your hardwood passes the moisture test, a vapor barrier is still a must. It acts like a raincoat between your hardwood and laminate, blocking any residual dampness that could sneak through. Some underlayments come with built-in vapor barriers, which is a smart, time-saving option. Foam underlayment with a moisture barrier layer is one of my personal favorites for this setup—it cushions the laminate while keeping water at bay.

3. Acclimate the Laminate Flooring

Before installation, let your laminate planks sit in the room for at least 48 hours. It might sound like overkill, but trust me—this step helps the boards adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity. Skipping this step can cause the boards to expand or contract later, throwing your hard work out of whack. As the saying goes, “patience is a virtue,” and nowhere is that truer than with flooring.

4. Leave Expansion Gaps

Laminate flooring expands and contracts with temperature and humidity changes. Always leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around walls, doorways, and other fixed objects. It might seem minor, but that space gives your floor room to “breathe.” Without it, your laminate could buckle or lift when the seasons change. Use spacers while installing to keep those gaps consistent.

5. Consider the Room Environment

If you’re working in an area prone to humidity—like a basement, kitchen, or near entryways—extra moisture control is key. Invest in a quality dehumidifier or ensure proper ventilation to maintain consistent indoor conditions.

Moisture and expansion might not sound glamorous, but they’re the unsung heroes of a long-lasting floor. Ignoring them is like building a sandcastle at high tide—it might look good at first, but it won’t stand the test of time.

Choosing the Right Underlayment

When it comes to laying laminate over hardwood, underlayment isn’t just a bonus—it’s your secret weapon. I like to think of it as the unsung hero beneath the surface, quietly doing all the heavy lifting. The right underlayment cushions every step, keeps moisture at bay, reduces noise, and even corrects minor imperfections in your hardwood. Skip it, and you might find yourself cutting corners that come back to bite you.

Here’s how to pick the perfect match for your project:

1. Foam Underlayment – The All-Rounder

Foam underlayment is the most common choice for laminate installations, and for good reason. It’s affordable, lightweight, and easy to roll out. Standard foam works well if your hardwood subfloor is in great shape—flat, dry, and squeak-free. Many foam options also come with a built-in vapor barrier, which is ideal for protecting the hardwood underneath.

If your space is on an upper floor, foam underlayment also helps dampen sound between levels. I’ve used this in apartments and multi-story homes where you want to soften those footstep sounds.

2. Cork Underlayment – The Premium Choice

Cork is a little pricier, but it’s worth every penny if you’re after better insulation and soundproofing. It’s a natural material that resists mold and mildew—great for slightly humid environments. Cork also adds a bit of firmness underfoot, which makes the laminate feel more stable. I often say it’s like walking on a cloud with solid ground beneath you.

3. Combination Underlayment – Two Birds, One Stone

Combination underlayment includes both foam cushioning and a moisture barrier in one product. It’s perfect for hardwood subfloors that need a little extra protection but don’t have major issues. This type saves you a step during installation, and if your home has mild humidity fluctuations, it strikes a perfect balance.

4. Rubber or Rubberized Underlayment – For Noise Control

If you’re dealing with a noisy household or live in a condo, rubber underlayment can be a lifesaver. It absorbs sound like a sponge, keeping your footsteps quieter and your neighbors happier. It’s durable, water-resistant, and ideal for high-traffic areas—but be prepared to spend a bit more.

5. What Not to Use

Never install laminate directly over hardwood without an underlayment or vapor barrier. The hardwood needs that buffer to handle temperature and moisture changes. Also, avoid carpet padding—it’s far too soft and will cause the laminate joints to flex and eventually separate.

When all’s said and done, the underlayment you choose sets the stage for how your floor will perform for years to come. As the old saying goes, “what’s beneath the surface makes all the difference.” Take your time, choose wisely, and your laminate will thank you with years of comfort and stability.

Step-by-Step Installation Process

Now that your hardwood is prepped and your underlayment’s ready to roll, it’s time for the fun part—laying down the laminate! I always say this stage feels a bit like putting together a giant jigsaw puzzle, only the reward is a stunning new floor you’ll walk on every day. Take it slow, keep your wits about you, and remember: measure twice, cut once.

Here’s my tried-and-true step-by-step method:

1. Acclimate the Laminate Planks

Before you start, let your laminate planks sit in the room for at least 48 hours. This helps them adjust to the temperature and humidity. I like to stack the boxes flat, with the ends slightly open, to allow airflow. Skip this step and you might end up with planks that expand or shrink after installation—trust me, that’s a headache you don’t want.

2. Lay the Underlayment

Once your planks are ready, roll out your underlayment across the hardwood. Make sure it lies flat without overlaps or wrinkles. If it doesn’t have an attached vapor barrier, tape the seams using waterproof tape. Think of this layer as your safety net—it cushions, quiets, and protects.

3. Plan Your Layout

Start from the longest wall and plan the direction of your planks. I usually run laminate parallel to the longest wall or toward the main light source in the room—it just looks better that way. Make sure your first and last rows won’t end up too narrow; if they do, trim the first row slightly wider to balance the layout.

4. Install the First Row

Begin with the tongue side facing the wall and use spacers to maintain a 1/4-inch expansion gap. Click or snap each plank together end-to-end. The first row is your foundation—if it’s crooked, everything else will follow suit. Take your time getting it perfectly straight. As I like to say, “well begun is half done.”

5. Continue Laying Planks and Stagger the Joints

As you move to the next row, cut the starting plank so seams are staggered by at least 12 inches from the previous row. This strengthens the floor’s structure and gives it a more natural appearance. Angle each new plank and gently click it into the groove of the previous row, using a tapping block if needed. Avoid hammering directly on the edges—you’ll risk chipping them.

6. Cut Around Doorways and Obstacles

Measure twice before making any cuts around door frames, vents, or corners. For tricky spots, I like using a jigsaw—it’s precise and easy to maneuver. Don’t forget to maintain that 1/4-inch expansion gap around all obstacles. A tight fit might look neat now, but it’ll cause warping later.

7. Check Alignment as You Go

Every few rows, step back and take a look. Are your planks straight? Are the seams tight? Catching a small misalignment early saves you from redoing half the room. It’s like catching a small leak before it becomes a flood—a stitch in time saves nine.

8. Finish the Last Row

You’ll probably need to rip (cut lengthwise) the final row to fit. Use a table saw or circular saw for clean cuts, and remember to leave that expansion gap along the wall. Snap the last pieces into place with a pull bar if space is tight.

Installing laminate is equal parts patience and precision. Take your time, trust the process, and before you know it, you’ll be standing on a floor that looks like it came straight out of a showroom.

Finishing Touches

Now that your laminate flooring is snugly in place, it’s time to add the finishing touches that truly make the room shine like a new penny. This is the stage where all your hard work pays off — the little details that take your project from “DIY job” to “pro-level perfection.”

Here’s how I wrap things up:

1. Remove the Spacers and Install Baseboards or Quarter Rounds

Once your floor is fully installed, go ahead and remove all the spacers you placed along the walls. These gaps were essential for expansion, but now it’s time to hide them. Reinstall your baseboards or add new quarter-round molding to cover the gaps. Nail the trim into the wall — not the laminate — so the floor can still move freely underneath. I’ve seen people make that rookie mistake, and it’s a surefire way to end up with buckled boards later.

2. Add Transition Strips

If your laminate meets another flooring type — say, tile, carpet, or vinyl — you’ll need transition strips. These not only make the shift between materials look seamless but also prevent tripping hazards and edge damage. Choose a transition color that complements your laminate for a polished look.

3. Inspect and Touch Up

Take a slow walk across your new floor. Do you hear any clicks, gaps, or uneven joints? Sometimes a plank just needs a little extra tap with a pull bar to lock in tight. If you find small gaps near the edges, a matching laminate filler or sealant can work wonders. Think of this step as your “fine-tuning” moment — every craftsman needs one.

4. Clean the Surface

Before moving furniture back in, give your floor a gentle clean. Vacuum with a soft brush attachment and wipe it down with a laminate-safe cleaner or a damp (not wet!) microfiber mop. Avoid harsh chemicals — they can dull the finish faster than you’d expect.

5. Let It Settle

While you can walk on the floor right away, I always recommend waiting 24 hours before placing heavy furniture or area rugs. This gives the laminate time to settle and ensures everything stays in place.

With those finishing touches done, stand back and admire your handiwork. The difference is night and day — your old hardwood has been given a brand-new personality, and the room feels refreshed without losing its character. As I like to say, “the devil’s in the details, but so is the delight.”

Cost, Time & Lifespan

When it comes to laying laminate over hardwood, one of the biggest perks is how much time and money you save. But let’s call a spade a spade — while it’s easier than a full flooring replacement, it still requires planning and a realistic budget. Here’s what you can expect when it comes to the costs, time commitment, and lifespan of your new laminate floor.

1. Cost Breakdown

The overall cost of installing laminate over hardwood usually ranges between $3 to $8 per square foot, depending on the materials and labor involved. Here’s a closer look at the key factors:

So, for a 200 sq. ft. room, you’re generally looking at:

• DIY cost: Around $400 to $1,000
• Professional cost: Around $800 to $1,600

Laminate’s affordability makes it an attractive choice compared to refinishing or replacing hardwood, which can easily cost $3,000 or more for the same area.

2. Time Estimates

If you’re rolling up your sleeves for a DIY install, set aside about one full weekend for a medium-sized room. That includes prep, acclimation, and finishing touches.

• Preparation: 3–5 hours (inspecting, leveling, cleaning)
• Installation: 6–10 hours (depending on room size and obstacles)
• Finishing & cleanup: 2–3 hours

A professional installer can usually wrap up the same project in a single day, especially if the hardwood underneath is already in good shape.

As I like to say, “haste makes waste.” Take your time, and the results will speak for themselves.

3. Lifespan and Maintenance

With proper installation and care, laminate flooring can last 15 to 25 years. High-quality laminate with a strong wear layer (rated AC3 or higher) can even push past that mark in low-traffic areas.

Here are a few tips to keep it looking top-notch:

• Sweep or vacuum regularly with a soft attachment.
• Use laminate-safe cleaners — no wax or polish.
• Add felt pads under furniture legs to prevent scratches.
• Keep moisture to a minimum; wipe spills right away.

While laminate can’t be refinished like hardwood, its durability and ease of maintenance make it a “set it and forget it” option for most homes. It’s a bit like buying peace of mind in plank form.