Laminate Flooring Over Carpet Padding

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been asked, “Can I install laminate flooring over carpet padding?” At first glance, it sounds like a clever shortcut — after all, the padding is already there, soft underfoot, and seems like it could double as underlayment. But as the old saying goes, “not everything that glitters is gold.” When it comes to flooring, cutting corners can cost you more in the long run.

Laminate flooring needs a solid and stable foundation to look good and perform well. Carpet padding, on the other hand, is designed to compress and cushion — the exact opposite of what laminate flooring requires. I’ve seen homeowners learn this the hard way, ending up with uneven floors, cracked joints, and squeaks that drive them up the wall.

In this post, I’ll walk you through why installing laminate flooring over carpet padding is a bad idea, what can go wrong if you try it, and the right way to get that beautiful, long-lasting laminate floor without headaches down the road. So, before you jump in with both feet, let’s take a closer look at what’s really under the surface.

Can You Install Laminate Flooring Over Carpet Padding?

If you’re thinking about saving time or effort by laying laminate flooring right over carpet padding, I hate to burst your bubble — but it’s not a good idea. Technically, yes, you can place laminate over carpet padding, but that doesn’t mean you should. It’s one of those situations where “just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.”

Laminate flooring needs a firm, flat, and stable base to prevent shifting or bending under pressure. Carpet padding is designed to be soft and flexible — it moves every time you walk on it. When you install laminate over it, the boards don’t have the proper support they need, leading to creaks, separation at the seams, and even broken locking systems.

Think of it this way: installing laminate over carpet padding is like building a house on sand — it might stand for a little while, but it won’t last. If you’re aiming for a professional-looking and long-lasting floor, the padding has to go. Instead, a proper underlayment made for laminate flooring will do the trick by providing the right balance of support and cushioning.

Why Carpet Padding Is a Problem for Laminate Flooring

When I first started working with flooring, I used to think a little extra padding underfoot couldn’t hurt — until I saw what it actually does to laminate. Believe me, installing laminate over carpet padding is like putting the cart before the horse; it just doesn’t work the way you’d hope.

Here’s why carpet padding becomes more of a foe than a friend:

1. It’s Too Soft and Spongy

Carpet padding is made to absorb impact and provide comfort, not stability. When laminate is laid on top of something that gives way under pressure, the planks flex and shift. Over time, that constant movement wears out the joints and locking mechanisms, leading to loose boards and an uneven surface.

2. Uneven Support

Even the best-quality carpet padding isn’t perfectly level. Laminate floors need an even surface, or you’ll end up with areas that feel “bouncy” or hollow underfoot. Those tiny gaps underneath the laminate can also cause noise — the kind of creaks that’ll have you walking on eggshells.

3. Moisture Retention

Carpet padding tends to trap moisture, especially if installed on concrete subfloors or in humid areas. That trapped moisture has nowhere to go and can seep into your laminate planks, leading to warping, swelling, or mold growth — a recipe for disaster.

4. Warranty Issues

Most laminate flooring manufacturers clearly state that installation must be done over a proper underlayment. Using carpet padding instead can void your warranty faster than you can say “oops.” And trust me, when flooring problems pop up, that warranty can be your best friend.

Difference Between Carpet Padding and Laminate Underlayment

Now, this is where most folks get their wires crossed. Carpet padding and laminate underlayment might sound like they serve the same purpose, but they’re worlds apart. As I often tell my clients, “you can’t fit a square peg in a round hole.” Each material is designed for a specific job — and using one in place of the other can spell trouble.

Let’s break it down clearly:

Carpet Padding is soft, thick, and cushiony — usually made from foam, rubber, or felt. Its job is to make carpet feel comfortable underfoot and to absorb impact.

Laminate Underlayment, on the other hand, is thin, dense, and firm — typically made from foam or cork. It’s built to create a smooth, stable surface while providing a moisture barrier and sound reduction.

To help you see the difference at a glance, here’s a quick comparison table:

So, while carpet padding might make your carpet feel like you’re walking on clouds, laminate flooring needs a solid, level, and moisture-resistant base — and that’s exactly what proper underlayment delivers. Mixing up the two is like using a pillow as a stepping stone — soft, but bound to collapse under pressure.

What Happens If You Install Laminate Over Carpet Padding

I’ve seen plenty of DIY projects go sideways because someone thought carpet padding could double as underlayment. At first, the floor might look fine — smooth and shiny — but give it a few weeks, and you’ll start noticing things that’ll make you scratch your head. As the saying goes, “the proof is in the pudding,” and with flooring, the results don’t lie.

Here’s what typically happens when you install laminate over carpet padding:

1. Buckling and Separation

Because the padding is too soft, the laminate planks flex with every step. Over time, that constant movement causes the boards to separate at the seams or buckle upward, creating unsightly gaps and trip hazards.

2. Creaking and Noise Issues

Every time you walk across the floor, the laminate shifts slightly, rubbing against itself and the padding underneath. The result? Annoying squeaks and pops that make your floor sound like it’s haunted.

3. Damaged Locking Mechanisms

Laminate planks use a tongue-and-groove locking system that depends on even pressure. When the base isn’t firm, the joints weaken and eventually crack — once that happens, there’s no turning back without replacing the affected boards.

4. Uneven Surface Feel

Instead of that solid, professional finish, your floor may feel bouncy or hollow underfoot. It’s like walking on a sponge — and trust me, that’s not the look or feel you want after spending good money on new flooring.

5. Shortened Lifespan

All these issues combined can cut the lifespan of your laminate flooring in half. What should’ve lasted 15–20 years might start falling apart in just a few.

In a nutshell, installing laminate over carpet padding is like building a bridge on jelly — it might hold for a bit, but it won’t stand the test of time. If you want your floor to last, start with the right foundation.

Correct Way to Prepare the Subfloor

If you want a laminate floor that looks and performs like a million bucks, prep is where the rubber meets the road. I’m going to walk you through everything I do on a jobsite — the tools I bring, the measurements I check, the fixes I make, and the decisions that separate a sloppy install from a pro one. Remember: do it right the first time and you won’t be back for repairs later.

Tools & materials you’ll want on hand

• Utility knife, heavy-duty (for cutting carpet and underlayment)
• Pry bar / trim puller, flat bar, claw hammer (for removing tack strips)
• Pliers (for pulling staples and tack strips)
• Staple remover or needle-nose pliers
• Shop vacuum (musty carpet dust is the enemy)
• Floor scraper or adhesive remover (for glue residue)
• Circular saw or oscillating multi-tool (if subfloor patching or cutting plywood)
• Screw gun / drill and 2–3″ construction / decking screws (to secure loose panels)
• Wood shims, construction adhesive, floor patch / underlayment patching compound
• Self-leveling compound and mixing paddle (for low spots on concrete/wood)
• Long straightedge (6–10 ft) or laser level — for checking flatness
• Moisture meter (wood and concrete modes) and plastic sheeting for a quick moisture test
• Underlayment of your choice (high-density foam, cork, or combination with vapor barrier)
• Seam tape (usually polyethylene or underlayment tape) and utility scissors
• Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, dust mask

Step 1 — Remove carpet, tack strips, and padding (don’t cheat)

Pull up carpet, roll it, and remove padding completely. Remove tack strips around the perimeter—leave them in place only if you plan to reinstall carpet later (rare). Pull all staples and nails; any leftover fastener can telegraph through underlayment or puncture the laminate.

Pro tip: after pulling padding, vacuum thoroughly. Dust and crumb buildup will create tiny bumps and noise later — don’t ignore this step.

Step 2 — Deal with adhesive & carpet glue

If the carpet was glued down, scrape up glue with a floor scraper or use a manufacturer-recommended adhesive remover. Some adhesives can remain tacky and cause issues with underlayment; for stubborn areas, you may need to sand or grind the residue or install a ¼” plywood underlayment over the concrete (see concrete section below).

Safety note: some old adhesives may contain hazardous chemicals — when in doubt, wear a respirator and check local disposal rules.

Step 3 — Inspect the subfloor type and condition

Identify whether you’re working on:

Wood subfloor (plywood/OSB over joists) — most common in houses.

Concrete slab — common in basements or slab-on-grade homes.

Existing wood floorboards — sometimes present over joists.

Look for Loose or squeaky boards Rot, mold, or soft spots, Large gaps or nail pops, High or low spots. If you find rot or structural damage, fix it before proceeding — replacing a bad section of subfloor is cheap insurance against future failure.

Step 4 — Fasten and secure wood subfloors (fix squeaks & movement)

Locate squeaky spots and pull the subfloor tight to the joist using 2–3″ construction screws. I drive screws every 6–8 inches along seams and at joists where movement is felt. Countersink screw heads below the surface if needed and fill any holes with wood filler or patching compound. If OSB edges are swollen or compromised, replace the affected sheet. Don’t try to “tape over” structurally unsound areas.

Step 5 — Check flatness and level (what tolerance to aim for)

Use a 6–10 ft straightedge or laser level. Laminate manufacturers commonly recommend your floor be flat within a small tolerance over a certain distance — as a practical, rule-of-thumb target I check for no more than about 3/16″ of deviation across a 10 foot run (that’s a common industry target). If you find high spots, sand or grind them; low spots will need patching or a self-leveling compound.

If your floor deviates beyond that: don’t force it. Use patching compound or self-leveling product to bring it into tolerance. Laminate won’t forgive big dips — what you don’t fix now you’ll pay for later.

Step 6 — Moisture checks (concrete and wood)

Moisture kills laminate. I always run moisture checks before laying underlayment:

Quick plastic sheet test (informal): tape a sheet of plastic (2–3 ft square) to the concrete and leave it 24–48 hours. If condensation forms under the sheet or the concrete darkens, you may have a moisture issue.

Moisture meter: use a concrete-capable meter or a wood meter on wooden subfloors. Take several readings across the floor; local spikes can indicate leaks or poor drying.

When in doubt: follow the laminate manufacturer’s moisture requirements. If the slab is suspect, install a vapor barrier underlayment specifically designed for concrete, or consult a professional for remediation.

I avoid giving hard numbers here because acceptable moisture limits vary by product — always check the flooring spec sheet.

Step 7 — Fixing common issues: high spots, low spots, and cracks

High spots: grind or sand down to level using a floor sander or grinder for concrete high spots. Be cautious about dust and use proper PPE.

Low spots / hollows: for wood, pack with plywood patch or apply a floor patch compound; for concrete, use a self-leveling underlayment mixed per manufacturer instructions and pour to the required thickness. Multiple pours may be needed for deep depressions.

Large cracks or control joints (concrete): these may telegraph through laminate. Fill or bridge them with a flexible patch designed for joints; some pros prefer to install a plywood subfloor over the slab for a floating laminate system.

Step 8 — Choosing and installing the right underlayment

Underlayment is not one-size-fits-all. Match the underlayment to your subfloor and the laminate product:

For wood subfloors: a high-density foam or cork underlayment is common. It provides minor sound dampening and evens small imperfections.

For concrete slabs: pick an underlayment with a built-in vapor barrier or lay a separate 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier first, then your underlayment on top.

For sound control (apartments): thicker cork or combination underlayments with sound ratings are the way to go.

Installation tips:

• Roll underlayment perpendicular to the laminate run for easier laying.
• Butt seams tightly (do not overlap unless the product says to) and tape seams with the recommended tape — airtight seams help with moisture control.
• Trim underlayment so it stops against the wall — don’t run it up the wall. Laminate needs expansion gaps, so underlayment should not pin it to the wall.
• If your underlayment has a polyethylene sheet attached, orient the vapor barrier down toward concrete (unless the product states otherwise).

Step 9 — Acclimation & expansion gaps (don’t skip)

Acclimation: let your boxed laminate sit in the room it will be installed in for at least 48–72 hours so it can adjust to temperature and humidity. This cuts down on gapping or buckling later.

Expansion gaps: leave the manufacturer-recommended expansion gap around the room perimeter (commonly around 1/4″–3/8″, but follow the product spec). Use spacers while installing, and cover gaps with baseboard or transition trim. Remember: laminate is a floating floor and needs room to expand with humidity changes — skimping on the gap is asking for trouble.

Step 10 — Final walkthrough and pre-install checklist

Before you snap the first plank together, run down this checklist:

• Carpet and padding completely removed, tack strips and staples gone.
• Subfloor clean, dry, and free of debris.
• No sharp fasteners protruding.
• Flatness within tolerance across the room (use straightedge).
• Moisture checks done and acceptable per manufacturer.
• Underlayment installed correctly with taped seams and vapor barrier where needed.
• Laminate acclimated for 48–72 hours.
• Tools and spacers at the ready.

If any item on the checklist isn’t green, fix it now. A minute of patience today saves an afternoon of headaches tomorrow.

Troubleshooting common subfloor problems (quick fixes)

• Persistent squeaks after install: locate and secure loose subfloor areas with screws (from below if possible). If not, carefully remove affected planks and fix from above.
• Minor dips you missed: use a thin plywood underlayment (¼”) over problem areas if they’re isolated and within reason.
• High humidity in the room: add dehumidification or delay install until conditions stabilize; consider underlayment with superior vapor control.

When to call a pro

If you find structural rot, severe slab moisture, active leaks, or a subfloor that needs extensive leveling across a large area, don’t be a hero—call an experienced flooring contractor. Fixes like replacing subfloor sheets, epoxy slab remediation, or major self-leveling pours are best handled by pros.

When (and Where) It Might Be Temporarily Acceptable

Now, I’ll be the first to say it — installing laminate flooring over carpet padding is a big no-no for any permanent setup. But like most rules, there are a few rare exceptions where you can bend but not break them. I’ve come across a handful of situations where it’s “good enough for now,” as long as you know what you’re getting into.

Here’s the deal:
If you’re dealing with a short-term project — say, a stage setup, an event booth, a photo studio, or a rental property you’re planning to renovate soon — laying laminate over carpet padding might be a passable temporary fix. It cushions sound, hides imperfections, and gives a decent surface for a few months. But let’s be clear — it’s like putting a bandage on a leak; it’ll hold for a while, but it’s not a lasting solution.

For these temporary installs, here are a few tips I’ve learned over the years:

• Use click-lock laminate planks, which are easier to install and remove without glue.
• Choose a low-pile carpet with dense padding (thin and firm — not those soft, spongy types).
• Avoid heavy furniture or high traffic — both will cause the planks to separate quickly.
• Keep it in dry, climate-controlled rooms only. Any hint of moisture, and you’ll be in deep water (literally).

And here’s a better idea — instead of installing directly over carpet padding, you can use interlocking foam tiles or floating subfloor panels as a temporary base. They give a more stable feel and can be reused later for other projects.

So yes, while it’s “technically possible” in short bursts, it’s definitely not the horse you want to bet on for the long run. If you want your floors to stand the test of time, proper prep and underlayment are the only ways to go.

When It Might Be Possible (The Only Exception)

While it’s almost always a bad idea to install laminate flooring over carpet padding, there’s one rare case where it might work — but only if every box is ticked. I’m talking about industrial-grade low-pile glue-down carpet, the kind you find in offices or commercial buildings.

Here’s why this setup is the only borderline exception:

1. Firm and Fully Adhered Surface:
   Commercial glue-down carpets are attached directly to the subfloor with industrial adhesive, leaving no play or bounce underneath. That means the carpet acts more like a dense underlayment than a soft pad. The laminate planks won’t sink or shift with movement, which is crucial for maintaining tight seams and preventing cracks.
2. No Separate Padding Layer:
   The moment there’s even a whisper of cushion — like foam or fiber padding — the entire plan falls apart. Laminate flooring needs a rigid base to lock its tongue-and-groove edges securely. Any softness creates flex points that can damage the locking mechanism over time.
3. Moisture Control Still Required:
   Even if the carpet is glued down, you still need a vapor barrier. Moisture can rise from the subfloor and get trapped, leading to mildew or swelling in your laminate. A thin plastic vapor barrier can help reduce this risk.
4. Use a Quality Underlayment:
   Even in this narrow case, don’t skip the underlayment. Use a high-density foam or cork underlayment specifically designed for laminate flooring. It helps even out minor surface imperfections and reduces noise transfer between floors.
5. Inspect for Flatness and Cleanliness:
   The surface should be perfectly flat and spotless — no glue ridges, no loose fibers, no debris. Any unevenness can cause planks to creak or separate over time.

To put it simply, installing laminate over carpet padding is like trying to balance a table on a mattress — it might stand for a while, but it’s bound to wobble. The only semi-safe setup is when the “carpet” is basically a hard, thin, glued-down surface acting like a subfloor.

The Right Way to Do It Instead (Best Alternative Approach)

If you really want your laminate flooring to last and look its best, the smartest move is to remove the carpet and padding completely before you start. It might seem like extra work now, but as the saying goes, “a stitch in time saves nine.” Here’s how to do it the right way, step by step:

1. Step 1: Remove the Carpet and Padding
   Start by pulling up the carpet from a corner. Use pliers to get a good grip and gently tug upward. Once the carpet is out, roll it up and move it aside. Do the same with the padding underneath. Most padding is stapled or glued down, so use a scraper or pliers to remove any leftover staples, nails, or adhesive. This step gives you a fresh, even surface to work with.
2. Step 2: Inspect the Subfloor
   After the carpet and padding are gone, it’s time to inspect the subfloor — whether it’s concrete, plywood, or plank. Look for damage, uneven areas, or soft spots. If there’s moisture, mold, or cracks, fix these issues before moving forward. Laminate is unforgiving on uneven bases, and every bump will show.
3. Step 3: Clean and Level the Subfloor
   Vacuum the entire area thoroughly to remove dust, debris, and old staples. For wooden subfloors, sand down any high spots and fill low spots with leveling compound. If it’s a concrete base, use a self-leveling compound for a perfectly smooth surface. A clean and flat subfloor ensures your laminate locks perfectly and doesn’t squeak or shift.
4. Step 4: Install a Vapor Barrier (If Needed)
   On concrete or in moisture-prone areas like basements, always install a vapor barrier before laying laminate. This prevents water vapor from seeping up and damaging your flooring. A simple plastic sheet or moisture-resistant underlayment will do the job.
5. Step 5: Add the Right Underlayment
   Choose a high-density foam or cork underlayment designed specifically for laminate flooring. These underlayments provide the right amount of cushion for comfort while still offering firm support. They also improve sound absorption and protect the laminate’s locking system from pressure.
6. Step 6: Lay Down the Laminate Flooring
   Once the underlayment is in place, start laying your laminate planks according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep expansion gaps around the perimeter to allow for natural expansion and contraction.

By taking the time to do it right, you’ll end up with a solid, quiet, and long-lasting floor that doesn’t creak or buckle. It’s like building a house — you wouldn’t skip the foundation, so don’t skip this groundwork either.