After years of installing floors across San Diego, one lesson has hit me like a ton of bricks: laminate flooring will only look as good as the environment you install it in. I’ve seen DIY jobs go sideways, I’ve seen brand-new planks swell like a sponge, and nine times out of ten, the root cause was the same — the flooring wasn’t acclimated.

Laminate may look tough, but at the end of the day it’s a wood-based product with an HDF core, which means it reacts to temperature and humidity just like any natural material. Bring cold laminate into a warm room and install it immediately, and you’re basically asking for trouble. Once the planks start expanding, you’ll see buckling, peaking, or gaps that stick out like a sore thumb.

Acclimation is the step that gets skipped the most, but ironically, it’s the step that prevents most installation headaches. It allows the laminate to adjust to the room’s humidity, temperature, and subfloor conditions, so the planks stay stable once they’re locked in place. Think of it as letting the flooring take a deep breath before it settles down for good.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through why acclimation matters, how it works, what manufacturers require, and how to do it correctly. I’ll also break down the real-world problems I’ve seen when this step is ignored — because trust me, I’ve been around the block, and skipping acclimation is a classic way to turn a great project into a wild goose chase.

By the time you reach the end, you’ll know exactly how to protect your laminate flooring from swelling, shifting, and costly repair work — all by giving it a simple 48–72 hour window to adjust.

What Exactly Is Acclimation?

Before we dive deeper, let’s get something straight: acclimation isn’t just “letting the boxes sit in the room.” A lot of homeowners hear that line and think it’s as simple as dropping the flooring inside and calling it a day. But as someone who installs laminate week in and week out, I can tell you acclimation is really about helping the flooring reach a stable equilibrium with the environment it’s going to live in.

Laminate flooring is built on a high-density fiberboard (HDF) core, which is essentially compressed wood fibers. And wood—no matter how engineered or fancy—always reacts to relative humidity (RH) and temperature. When the RH rises, the core absorbs moisture and expands. When the RH drops, the core releases moisture and contracts. That’s just the nature of the beast.

Acclimation is the process of balancing the moisture content (MC) of the planks with the room’s climate so that once you lock everything together, the floor isn’t fighting the environment. The goal is simple:
the laminate should not be colder, hotter, wetter, or drier than the space it’s being installed in.

Otherwise, the planks expand or contract after installation — and that’s where headaches like peaking, gapping, and delamination start knocking at your door.

But acclimation doesn’t happen in a vacuum. It involves the entire ecosystem of the installation site. That means:

• the floating floor system
• the subfloor (concrete, OSB, plywood)
• the vapor barrier or underlayment
• the HVAC-controlled air
• and even the transportation temperature right before delivery

All these factors interact. And if even one is off, you’re planting the seeds for trouble.

To put it simply, acclimation helps laminate transition from its manufacturing environment → its warehouse → the delivery truck → and finally into the climate-controlled room where it will live for the next 15–20 years. Skipping this step is like jumping into a hot tub straight after stepping out of a freezer — your body rebels, and so does your floor.

That’s why manufacturers stress acclimation so much. It’s not just a box-checking exercise; it’s the foundation of a stable installation. When done right, you’re setting the stage for a smooth, long-lasting floor. When skipped, well… you’re cruising for a bruising.

Why Acclimation Matters: The Science Behind Laminate Expansion

Most people think laminate flooring fails because of “bad installation.” And sure, installation mistakes happen — but more often than not, the real troublemaker is physics. Laminate is a wood-based product at its core, and wood never stops responding to its environment. If you install it before it adjusts to the room’s conditions, you’re basically setting up a tug-of-war between the planks and the air around them. And trust me, that’s a battle the floor always loses.

Let me break down the science behind it.

Moisture Content Balance

Every laminate plank has a moisture content (MC), and every room has a relative humidity (RH) level. When those two don’t match, the laminate tries to correct the imbalance:

• If the room’s RH is higher than the plank’s MC → the plank absorbs moisture → it expands.
• If the room’s RH is lower → the plank releases moisture → it shrinks.

Simple? Yes.
Forgiving? Not at all.

Moisture imbalances cause all the “ugly duckling” symptoms we see:

• buckling
• peaking at the seams
• separation between boards
• warped locking systems

Skipping acclimation is like sweeping dirt under the rug — it will show up sooner or later.

Temperature Influence

Temperature plays a big role too. Laminate expands when it warms up and contracts when it cools down. That’s why I always tell homeowners:

“If your flooring is cold from the truck and warm in the room, don’t install it — you’re asking for trouble.”

Temperature swings force the planks to move before the locking system has settled. And once those joints get stressed, they never quite go back to normal.

Anything outside the recommended 65–85°F (18–29°C) range can create long-term expansion pressure inside the floorboards. That pressure has nowhere to go except upward, creating the classic “tenting” in the middle of the room.

Environmental Stability of the Installation Site

This is the part most DIYers overlook:
you can’t acclimate flooring in a room that isn’t stable.

The HVAC should be running for at least 48–72 hours before you bring in the laminate. If the room’s humidity is swinging like a pendulum, acclimation becomes pointless — the flooring keeps chasing a moving target.

Here’s what proper stability looks like:

• RH between 35–65%
• Temperature between 65–85°F
• Subfloor moisture within manufacturer limits
• Windows and doors closed
• No fans blowing directly on the planks

Think of it like marinating food: you need consistency. If the room climate is fluctuating every few hours, acclimation “goes out the window,” as the idiom goes.

Bringing It All Together

Acclimation isn’t some old-school practice installers invented to waste time. It’s grounded in moisture physics, thermal expansion, and material engineering. When you let the flooring reach equilibrium with the room, you’re setting it up for success. Skip this step, and you’re basically rolling the dice — and from what I’ve seen on job sites, the house usually wins.

Manufacturer Requirements

If there’s one place where homeowners and installers shouldn’t play fast and loose, it’s manufacturer guidelines. Every laminate brand—whether it’s Pergo, Shaw, Mohawk, Armstrong, Quick-Step, or even budget lines—lists acclimation requirements right on the installation sheet. And trust me, these aren’t suggestions. Manufacturers include these steps because laminate flooring behaves differently depending on the environment, and they’ve tested those conditions in controlled labs.

Over the years, I’ve seen floors lose their warranty faster than you can say “buckling” simply because the installer skipped acclimation. And when the manufacturer comes to inspect? They can spot a non-acclimated floor from a mile away.

Typical Acclimation Guidelines (48–72 Hours Minimum)

Most laminate manufacturers require their flooring to acclimate for at least 48 hours, with many recommending a full 72 hours—especially if:

• the boxes arrived cold,
• the site recently had construction or painting,
• the home uses new HVAC systems,
• or the flooring traveled through climate changes in transport.

The flooring must stay in the room where it will be installed, not in the garage, not in the hallway, and definitely not outside under shade. I’ve seen homeowners try all three, and it’s like putting a band-aid on the wrong cut — it simply doesn’t help.

ISO / NALFA Standards (Industry Rules Behind the Rules)

Many manufacturers base their guidelines on industry standards like:

• NALFA Certification (North American Laminate Flooring Association)
• ISO 4760 Moisture Expansion Guidelines
• EN 13329 Laminate Floor Specifications

These standards define how laminate responds to moisture, temperature, and structural stress. They’re designed so the planks perform consistently in real-world homes, not just perfect lab conditions.

These standards aren’t printed for fun — they’re the backbone of the entire laminate flooring industry. If the product is labeled “NALFA Certified,” you can bet your last dollar that acclimation is part of the approved installation protocol.

Climate Requirements (What the Room Must Be Conditioned To)

Manufacturers align on one thing: the room must be climate-controlled before acclimation begins.

Common requirements include:

• Room temperature: 65–85°F (18–29°C)
• Relative humidity: 35–65%
• Subfloor moisture: must meet manufacturer limits (usually 3–5% MC for wood subfloors and under 4.5–5% for concrete slabs)

If the room isn’t within these limits?
Acclimation might as well be “water off a duck’s back” — it won’t have any real effect.

Warranty Protection (The Painful Part Installers Don’t Mention)

Skipping acclimation voids most laminate warranties. Period.

And here’s the kicker:
manufacturers look for environmental imprint signs:

• edge swelling
• compressed locking joints
• moisture patterning
• cupping from internal pressure
• uneven dimensional expansion

These are dead giveaways that the laminate was installed before balancing with the room.

I’ve been called to inspect warranty claims where the homeowner swore they installed everything “by the book.” One quick look at the board edges or the moisture history of the room, and it was clear as day: acclimation was skipped or rushed. And when that happens, the manufacturer simply says, “Sorry, this isn’t a product defect.”

You’d be shocked how many people end up paying out of pocket for a brand-new floor simply because they didn’t let it sit for two days.

Why Manufacturers Take Acclimation So Seriously

Put simply:

• It reduces expansion pressure
• It stabilizes the locking system
• It prevents stress points at joints
• It ensures dimensional stability
• It keeps the floor within tolerance standards

Manufacturers don’t want warranty headaches any more than homeowners do. Acclimation is their “insurance policy,” and they expect installers to honor it.

If you’re following this guide step by step, by now you understand the science, the context, and the industry standards behind acclimation. Next, we’re moving into the gritty, real-world side of things — the part homeowners notice when something goes wrong.

Signs Your Laminate Flooring Was NOT Acclimated Properly

Laminate flooring is rarely shy about showing its dissatisfaction when it hasn’t been given time to acclimate. As a flooring installer, I’ve walked into countless homes where the moment I stepped onto the floor, I could tell something was off. When planks aren’t properly balanced with the room’s temperature and humidity, they start to expand or contract, creating issues that are both visible and structural. Here are the most common signs that indicate your laminate flooring skipped this crucial step.

Peaking at the Seams

One of the most common signs of poor acclimation is peaking at the seams, where planks push upward and form a raised V-shape along their edges. This happens when the laminate absorbs moisture after installation and has no room to expand, causing visible stress at the joints. It’s most noticeable in rooms with fluctuating humidity or near sunlight-exposed areas, and it’s often one of the first indicators that a manufacturer would flag during warranty inspections.

Buckling or “Tenting”

Buckling, sometimes called tenting, occurs when the floor lifts in the middle, creating a noticeable hump. This is usually the result of planks being installed cold in a warm room or failing to balance moisture content before installation. The locking system struggles under the expansion pressure, leading to permanent deformation. Repairing buckled laminate can be complicated and expensive, making proper acclimation a small step that saves a lot of trouble.

Gapping Between Boards

Gapping happens when laminate shrinks after installation, leaving hairline or wider spaces between planks. This often occurs when flooring is brought from a humid warehouse into a dry indoor environment or when an HVAC system dries the room too quickly. Gaps not only create an uneven appearance but can also trap dirt and reduce the overall stability of the floor, leading to more maintenance over time.

Edge Swelling

Edge swelling is another clear sign of improper acclimation, where the HDF core absorbs moisture unevenly and causes plank edges to rise, darken, or soften. Even if the room later stabilizes, swollen edges rarely return to their original shape, making the floor look warped and prematurely aged. Edge swelling is particularly noticeable along walls and in corners where airflow is restricted.

Creaking or Clicking Sounds

Floors that were not properly acclimated often produce creaking or clicking noises. Expansion or contraction after installation puts stress on the tongue-and-groove locking system, causing movement and audible complaints with every step. A properly acclimated floor should feel solid and quiet underfoot, whereas an unacclimated one “talks” constantly, revealing the stress within the system.

Sides Pulling in Different Directions

Sometimes one side of the room will shift or move differently than the other, creating a subtle wave or uneven alignment across the floor. This happens when moisture distribution across the planks is uneven or when boxes were stored incorrectly before installation. Even small differences in expansion can throw off the floor’s appearance and create gaps or misaligned joints over time.

Micro-Fractures in the Locking System

Finally, micro-fractures can develop in the tongue-and-groove locking system when planks expand too aggressively. These tiny cracks may not be noticeable immediately, but they compromise the integrity of the floor and often lead to gaps, edge separation, and failure of the locking mechanism. Most manufacturers will void warranties if these signs are present, as they indicate the flooring was installed without proper acclimation.

How to Properly Acclimate Laminate Flooring

Acclimating laminate flooring may seem like a small step, but in my experience, it’s the single most important thing you can do to prevent problems later. Proper acclimation ensures the planks reach equilibrium with the room’s temperature and humidity before installation, protecting the floor from buckling, gapping, and other headaches. Here’s how I recommend doing it correctly.

Prepare the Environment First

Before you even touch the flooring boxes, make sure the room is ready. Set the HVAC to maintain a temperature between 65–85°F (18–29°C) and relative humidity between 35–65%. Close windows and doors to stabilize conditions. Check that the subfloor moisture is within the manufacturer’s recommended limits—usually 3–5% for wood subfloors and under 4.5–5% for concrete. Think of this step as creating a “home base” where the laminate can safely adjust.

Prepare the Laminate Packs

Keep the flooring boxes sealed while they adjust to the room’s environment. Move them from the delivery truck into the installation room, and stack them in a crisscross pattern to allow airflow around every box. Avoid laying the planks flat on the floor in a single stack, as this can trap moisture and prevent even acclimation. The goal is to let the laminate “breathe” and gradually match the room conditions.

Duration

Most manufacturers recommend 48–72 hours of acclimation. In some situations—like basements, new construction, or humid climates—you may need longer. The key is patience: rushing this step is like putting the cart before the horse. Give the flooring time to adjust fully, because once installed, any leftover imbalance can cause expansion or contraction problems.

Subfloor Acclimation

Don’t forget about the subfloor itself. Concrete slabs, plywood, or OSB panels also need to be stable and match the room’s environment. Check moisture readings with a reliable meter and, if necessary, use vapor barriers or underlayment to control moisture migration. A properly acclimated subfloor ensures the laminate sits on a stable base and prevents hidden stress that could affect the planks later.

Special Considerations

Keep in mind that certain conditions require extra care. New construction, high-humidity climates, winter installations, and flooring stored in garages all benefit from longer acclimation periods. Even laminate with integrated padding needs time to stabilize, as the padding can affect moisture absorption. In these cases, err on the side of patience—it’s far better to wait than to fix a warped floor.

Subfloor Acclimation — The Step Everyone Forgets

Many homeowners and DIY installers focus solely on the laminate planks, but the subfloor is just as critical. If the base isn’t properly acclimated, the best-laid laminate can still face warping, cupping, or gapping. Over the years, I’ve seen floors fail even after careful plank acclimation simply because the subfloor wasn’t stable.

Check Moisture Levels

Before laying any laminate, it’s essential to measure the subfloor’s moisture content. Concrete slabs, plywood, or OSB panels can hold varying levels of moisture depending on construction age, humidity, and recent weather. A reliable moisture meter will help determine if the subfloor is within manufacturer limits—usually around 3–5% for wood subfloors and 4.5–5% for concrete. Skipping this step is like building a house on shaky ground; the laminate will eventually show the stress.

Stabilize the Subfloor

Once you know the moisture levels, take steps to stabilize the subfloor. For concrete, use vapor barriers to prevent moisture migration from below. For wood-based subfloors, ensure the room’s humidity is consistent and the material has acclimated for at least 48 hours. Even minor variations can cause the laminate to expand or contract unevenly, resulting in gaps, creaks, or buckling over time.

Ensure Temperature Consistency

The subfloor should be in the same temperature range as the room, typically 65–85°F (18–29°C). Cold or warm subfloors can affect the laminate’s moisture balance as soon as it touches the surface. This is especially important in rooms with radiant heating or floors over concrete slabs, where temperature differences can create hidden stresses in the planks.

Align with Laminate Acclimation

Subfloor acclimation should happen concurrently with plank acclimation. Think of it as preparing both partners before a dance—if one is off, the rhythm fails. By ensuring both the planks and the subfloor have adjusted to the room’s conditions, you dramatically reduce the risk of installation issues and improve the long-term performance of your laminate floor.

Common Mistakes During Acclimation and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced installers can slip up when it comes to acclimating laminate flooring. Over the years, I’ve noticed recurring mistakes that often lead to problems, even when all other steps are done correctly. Knowing these pitfalls can save you time, money, and frustration.

Skipping the Acclimation Step

The most obvious mistake is skipping acclimation entirely. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen homeowners excited to start installing and decide, “Why wait 48 hours?” But rushing the process is like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole—the laminate simply won’t settle correctly, and you’re almost guaranteed to see gapping, peaking, or buckling within weeks.

Acclimating in the Wrong Room

Some people move the flooring boxes into a garage, hallway, or another room, thinking it will eventually adjust. The problem is that laminate only truly acclimates in the room where it will be installed. Different temperatures, humidity levels, and airflow patterns in other spaces can leave the planks unbalanced and prone to movement once they are installed.

Ignoring Subfloor Moisture

Even if the planks themselves are perfectly acclimated, a wet or uneven subfloor can sabotage the installation. Moisture from concrete slabs or improperly dried plywood can migrate into the laminate, causing expansion and cupping. Always check subfloor moisture and stabilize it before laying down any flooring.

Shortening the Acclimation Period

Some installers or DIYers try to cut acclimation time in half, thinking it’s “good enough.” I’ve seen floors that were only acclimated for a few hours develop gapping and edge swelling within days. Manufacturers recommend 48–72 hours, and sometimes longer depending on climate and storage conditions. Skimping on time is like skipping the seasoning step in cooking—everything may look fine at first, but the end result suffers.

Poor Box Storage

Stacking laminate boxes incorrectly is another common mistake. Boxes stacked flat without airflow can trap moisture unevenly, and leaning them against a wall can cause warping before the planks are even opened. The right approach is to stack boxes in a crisscross pattern with space for air circulation, letting every plank adjust evenly to the room environment.

Installing During Extreme Conditions

Installing laminate immediately after a major temperature or humidity change—like moving it from a cold truck into a hot room—is a recipe for disaster. Sudden environmental shifts stress the planks and the locking system. Always wait until the room temperature and humidity are stable before starting installation.

Tips for Quick and Effective Acclimation

Acclimating laminate flooring doesn’t have to be a guessing game. Over the years, I’ve developed practical tips that make the process more predictable and effective, saving time while protecting your investment. Following these strategies ensures your floor adjusts properly and avoids common pitfalls.

Control the Room Environment

The first tip is to stabilize the room before bringing in the flooring. Maintain a temperature between 65–85°F (18–29°C) and relative humidity between 35–65%. Close windows and doors and make sure HVAC systems are running. A consistent environment allows the laminate to adjust evenly and prevents expansion or contraction surprises later on.

Stack Boxes Properly

Airflow around the boxes is crucial. Stack laminate boxes in a crisscross pattern rather than flat or leaning against walls. This ensures that every plank, from top to bottom, acclimates evenly. I’ve seen too many floors warped simply because boxes were stacked incorrectly during acclimation.

Allow Sufficient Time

Patience is key. Most manufacturers recommend 48–72 hours for acclimation, but in some cases, such as high-humidity areas, new construction, or cold deliveries, longer periods may be necessary. Rushing this step can undo all your preparation and lead to gaps, peaking, or buckling.

Monitor Subfloor Moisture

Even if your planks are acclimated, a subfloor that is too wet or uneven can sabotage the installation. Use a moisture meter to ensure your subfloor meets the manufacturer’s guidelines. Stabilize the surface with vapor barriers or underlayment if needed. A well-acclimated plank on an unstable subfloor is like building on sand—everything eventually moves.

Keep the Flooring in the Installation Room

Never acclimate flooring in a garage, hallway, or storage room and then move it to the installation site. The laminate adjusts to the environment it’s in, so it must sit in the room where it will be installed. Skipping this step can lead to uneven expansion and gaps, especially near walls or doors.

Avoid Extreme Conditions

Avoid introducing the flooring into rooms with extreme temperature or humidity swings. For example, don’t take laminate from a cold delivery truck straight into a heated room, or install during heavy rain or after recent painting without proper ventilation. Sudden changes create stress within the planks and the locking system, leading to long-term problems.

Final Thoughts and Best Practices

Acclimating laminate flooring may seem like a small, mundane step, but in reality, it’s the foundation for a long-lasting, stable installation. From my experience, skipping or rushing this process is where most of the common flooring problems begin. The good news is that by following a few simple best practices, you can avoid gapping, peaking, and buckling—and keep your floor looking flawless for years.

Treat Acclimation as a Non-Negotiable Step

The first rule I follow is treating acclimation as mandatory, not optional. Whether you’re a professional installer or a DIY enthusiast, give the planks the full 48–72 hours—or longer if conditions require it—to adjust. Think of it like letting dough rise before baking: skipping it may save a little time upfront, but it will cost you more in corrections later.

Stabilize Both Flooring and Subfloor

Proper acclimation isn’t just about the planks; the subfloor must also be stable and within moisture guidelines. Check concrete, plywood, or OSB for moisture content, and make adjustments with vapor barriers or underlayment as needed. When both layers are stable, the laminate can rest comfortably in its new home without stress.

Monitor Temperature and Humidity

Consistency is key. Keep the room temperature between 65–85°F (18–29°C) and relative humidity between 35–65% throughout the acclimation period. Sudden swings in climate can undo hours of preparation and lead to long-term problems. Small steps like running the HVAC, closing doors and windows, and using a humidity meter can make a huge difference.

Use Proper Storage Techniques

Stack boxes in a crisscross pattern with air circulation around all sides. Avoid leaning boxes against walls or stacking them flat in one large pile. Proper storage during acclimation ensures even adjustment and reduces the risk of warping or uneven expansion.

Follow Manufacturer Guidelines

Always refer to the laminate manufacturer’s instructions. Different brands may have specific requirements based on their core materials, locking systems, or surface treatments. Following these guidelines protects your floor and maintains your warranty.

Final Takeaway

In the end, acclimation is about patience, preparation, and respect for the material. A few days of careful adjustment can prevent years of headaches. As the saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” and nowhere is that truer than with laminate flooring. By following these steps, you ensure your floor stays beautiful, functional, and worry-free for the long haul.